Cafes & Eateries

"Kaira"

A Haven for the Nadan Kerala Gastronomical Expedition!

By – Lt Col (Retd) D Purushothaman Pillay

   The Kochi food scene is certainly abuzz with exciting happenings, options and launches. This weekend we discovered yet another new destination in our continuing food journey through Kochi - 'Kaira'. This name has a Greek origin and translates to mean - "a place where good things happen". This unknown nugget of trivia is emblazoned on the welcome plaque that greets us, as we step into the restaurant. True to its name, we were taken on a pleasant gustatory joy ride of the flavors of Kerala.

   Away from the bustle of rush hour, this new eatery is cradled literally in the heart of the city, in the tranquil neighborhood of Kacheripady. This restaurant serves only ‘Tani Nadan’ - Kerala cuisine. An elegant two-storied building with abundant parking invites you into minimal interiors that have an innate sophistication, which is tastefully furnished thereby imparting a warm welcoming ambience. The place accommodates 74 covers, of which 40 are in two air-conditioned niches in the inner recesses of the building hidden from the entry non air-conditioned section. The most exclusive seating however is the lone six-seated al-fresco dining alcove overlooking the manicured verdant surroundings, which is an airy jut out from the main dining hall. It should be an ideal hang out for some serious buddy-time with bosom pals, in a serene setting.

   Opened with much fanfare, just over four months back, on 9 Sep 2012, by Shri Vayalar Ravi, Union Cabinet Minister of Overseas Indian Affairs, this new place is promoted by two mavericks, who also share an ‘Antony ‘middle name;  that have recently forayed into the restaurant business with fresh business ideas from Europe. Set in the expansive estate of Mr Lal Antony Katticaren, Chef Dony Antony Pattam, who is a master at continental cuisine, returned to his motherland, after spending over a decade, honing his culinary skills under many celebrated master chefs in London, to set up this enchanting joint venture. The potential to showcase the Kerala cuisine in an innovative manner that was not attempted  before, led them to handpick a team of experts counting a dozen; captained by a home-grown culinary talent, the Taj-inducted Executive Chef Saji Alex, a Kerala cuisine veteran, with over two decades of distinguished experience with the Casino group. For this fresh team, this new venture affords a unique opportunity to synergize their expertise and parade the well known delicacies in a novel original presentation.

   The menu is Spartan in choice but covers every edible delicacy one would like to sample. So one gets to choose from a choice of dishes done in vegetables, mutton, beef, chicken, duck, shrimps or fish. They are then presented in various forms, among others as Varatiyathu, Ullarthiyathu, Porichathu, Thalichathu, Pollichathu and the like. Mutton and Chicken Biriyanis are also being served. However, the signature dish, we are told is the ubiquitous favorite - “Duck Roast".

   I was very keen on sampling their cooking, hence I chose the fish curry meals which was served to me in the traditional style on a fresh, green banana leaf, albeit on the table. This choice, really allowed me to have a tasting of a variety of dishes all at one go - quite like a served-buffet on a leaf. I was totally overwhelmed by the gustative explosion that genially invaded my palate. It was amazing the way they captured the subtleties of all the various flavors, leaving my taste buds titillated by the bitterness of the Pachadi, umami-ness of the Beef Varatiyathu, tangy saltiness of the Meen Curry, sourness of the Naranga Achar and the sweetness of the Semiya Payasam. My word, this treat was totally unexpected, yet counts among the tastiest sadyas I have enjoyed in a long while.

   A quick word on the service, it was courteous, efficient, prompt and unobtrusive. Finally, the pricing of the menu is unbelievable; all the dishes come within the price band of Rs 100 to Rs 200. Pinch yourself; you will get the best Kerala meal for 2 for around Rs 400. Grand Hotel, since 1963; after ruling the realm for half a century; a new pretender to the throne has arrived at last, be prepared for an exodus in droves to ‘Kaira’ the new benchmark for the best ‘Nadan Kerala Cuisine’.

   It was great chatting with the Restaurant Manager Mr Subash, who also apprised me of the future plans. On the anvil, at this extensive facility that has been tastefully created are, an exclusive Seafood Grill with 36 covers, a Banquet Hall catering for 150 pax and a Coffee Shop with both indoor air-conditioned and outdoor seating with 16 covers.

   We as a family loved the ‘Kaira’ experience, more so, the tastes of what we chose to have today; to the extent that we all have even chosen our menu for the next visit; which we all know, will be pretty darn soon; only because there is magic in the tastes being dished on those copious steaming platters, that emerge from the kitchen in this great new dining place. The taste is simply irresistible! Am positive before the year is out, you will proliferate, dictated by the success of this restaurant and a growing clamor for another similar 'place where good things happen'.

   Well Done Team Kaira! Way to go Messrs Lal Katticaren & Dony Pattam, yours looks like a partnership destined for prosperity.

Timings - 11 am to 11 pm

Address - 41/3639 - Kacheripady,

Chittoor Road, Kochi - 682018

Tel - 0484-4041666

Mobile - Manager - 9400439151