"Kaira"
A Haven for the Nadan Kerala Gastronomical Expedition!
By – Lt Col (Retd) D Purushothaman Pillay
The Kochi food scene is certainly abuzz with
exciting happenings, options and launches. This weekend we discovered yet
another new destination in our continuing food journey through Kochi - 'Kaira'.
This name has a Greek origin and translates to mean - "a place where good
things happen". This unknown nugget of trivia is emblazoned on the welcome
plaque that greets us, as we step into the restaurant. True to its name, we
were taken on a pleasant gustatory joy ride of the flavors of Kerala.
Away from the bustle of rush hour, this new
eatery is cradled literally in the heart of the city, in the tranquil neighborhood
of Kacheripady. This restaurant serves only ‘Tani Nadan’ - Kerala cuisine. An
elegant two-storied building with abundant parking invites you into minimal interiors
that have an innate sophistication, which is tastefully furnished thereby
imparting a warm welcoming ambience. The place accommodates 74 covers, of which
40 are in two air-conditioned niches in the inner recesses of the building hidden
from the entry non air-conditioned section. The most exclusive seating however
is the lone six-seated al-fresco dining alcove overlooking the manicured
verdant surroundings, which is an airy jut out from the main dining hall. It
should be an ideal hang out for some serious buddy-time with bosom pals, in a serene
setting.
Opened with much fanfare, just over four
months back, on 9 Sep 2012, by Shri Vayalar Ravi, Union Cabinet Minister of
Overseas Indian Affairs, this new place is promoted by two mavericks, who also share
an ‘Antony ‘middle name; that have
recently forayed into the restaurant business with fresh business ideas from
Europe. Set in the expansive estate of Mr Lal Antony Katticaren, Chef Dony
Antony Pattam, who is a master at continental cuisine, returned to his
motherland, after spending over a decade, honing his culinary skills under many
celebrated master chefs in London, to set up this enchanting joint venture. The
potential to showcase the Kerala cuisine in an innovative manner that was not
attempted before, led them to handpick a
team of experts counting a dozen; captained by a home-grown culinary talent, the
Taj-inducted Executive Chef Saji Alex, a Kerala cuisine veteran, with over two
decades of distinguished experience with the Casino group. For this fresh team,
this new venture affords a unique opportunity to synergize their expertise and
parade the well known delicacies in a novel original presentation.
The menu is Spartan in choice but covers
every edible delicacy one would like to sample. So one gets to choose from a
choice of dishes done in vegetables, mutton, beef, chicken, duck, shrimps or
fish. They are then presented in various forms, among others as Varatiyathu,
Ullarthiyathu, Porichathu, Thalichathu, Pollichathu and the like. Mutton and
Chicken Biriyanis are also being served. However, the signature dish, we are
told is the ubiquitous favorite - “Duck Roast".
I was very keen on sampling their cooking,
hence I chose the fish curry meals which was served to me in the traditional
style on a fresh, green banana leaf, albeit on the table. This choice, really
allowed me to have a tasting of a variety of dishes all at one go - quite like
a served-buffet on a leaf. I was totally overwhelmed by the gustative explosion
that genially invaded my palate. It was amazing the way they captured the
subtleties of all the various flavors, leaving my taste buds titillated by the
bitterness of the Pachadi, umami-ness of the Beef Varatiyathu, tangy saltiness
of the Meen Curry, sourness of the Naranga Achar and the sweetness of the
Semiya Payasam. My word, this treat was totally unexpected, yet counts among
the tastiest sadyas I have enjoyed in a long while.
A quick word on the service, it was courteous,
efficient, prompt and unobtrusive. Finally, the pricing of the menu is unbelievable;
all the dishes come within the price band of Rs 100 to Rs 200. Pinch yourself;
you will get the best Kerala meal for 2 for around Rs 400. Grand Hotel, since
1963; after ruling the realm for half a century; a new pretender to the throne
has arrived at last, be prepared for an exodus in droves to ‘Kaira’ the new
benchmark for the best ‘Nadan Kerala Cuisine’.
It was great chatting with the Restaurant
Manager Mr Subash, who also apprised me of the future plans. On the anvil, at this
extensive facility that has been tastefully created are, an exclusive Seafood
Grill with 36 covers, a Banquet Hall catering for 150 pax and a Coffee Shop
with both indoor air-conditioned and outdoor seating with 16 covers.
We as a family loved the ‘Kaira’ experience,
more so, the tastes of what we chose to have today; to the extent that we all
have even chosen our menu for the next visit; which we all know, will be pretty
darn soon; only because there is magic in the tastes being dished on those
copious steaming platters, that emerge from the kitchen in this great new
dining place. The taste is simply irresistible! Am positive before the year is
out, you will proliferate, dictated by the success of this restaurant and a growing
clamor for another similar 'place where good things happen'.
Well Done Team Kaira! Way to go Messrs Lal
Katticaren & Dony Pattam, yours looks like a partnership destined for
prosperity.
Timings -
11 am to 11 pm
Address -
41/3639 - Kacheripady,
Chittoor
Road, Kochi - 682018
Tel -
0484-4041666